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30 Restaurants in 30 Nights!
Tales from a Gastronomical Marathon
By Mimi Harrison

Night 7: Thyme Square Café
One week into my month of meals, I head for Thyme Square. This place is aptly named, sitting as it does on a prime chunk of real estate near the epicenter of today's bustling Bethesda, across from the Barnes & Noble and next to the Landmark Theatre. Thyme Square has location, location, location.

On a Wednesday night, though, the place seemed more Jan. 1 than New Year's Eve. I sit at one of several occupied tables in the dining room; there were several more outside. Basically, there was nothing doing. A TV was tuned to "American Idol," mercifully soundless. The bartender stood around, the wait staff loitered in the corners. I've worked as a waitress and, believe me, weeknights can be killers The bartender, happy I think to have someone to serve, snaps to attention and politely takes my order. A server delivers it suspiciously quickly. When I thank her she says wistfully, "It looks so good!"

It wasn't good. It wasn't bad, either. It was just Wednesday: the roasted salmon, potatoes and asparagus sure sounded good, and I'm sure they were, when they were first cooked. But the meal has been at least par-cooked and jazzed again under a broiler. The effect has all the appeal of the fibber on Match.com: a good idea past its prime. Not awful, just not the meal of your dreams.

You can't blame a place for a weeknight slump. On the weekends, Thyme Square is usually tootin' with business, and the plates are flying out of the kitchen as the food is made. As I get my check, the sound track is playing a disco rendition of "MacArthur Park". That clears me out immediately.

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