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30 Restaurants in 30 Nights!
Tales from a Gastronomical Marathon
By Mimi Harrison

Night 23: Ri Ra
Although I enjoyed a perfectly marvelous meal at the Irish Inn at Glen Echo, I have to confess that shepherd's pie was still on my mind. I am not even a small part Irish, but, as anyone who knows me can attest, I have always wanted to be Irish. I think it must be the language. I am drawn to the lilting speech, the lovely use of the word "grand." The large, fractious families who speak of "our Erin" and "our Brendan." So for a little more taste of Gaelic I head to Ri Ra, Bethesda's new piece of the Old Sod. An Irish pub and restaurant, Ri Ra is quite literally a bit of the Emerald Isle. The handsome interior was constructed of antique mahogany woodwork shipped to Bethesda from Ireland. The bar in the restaurant was once the bar at Dublin's Olympia Theatre which first opened in 1879 on Dame Street, opposite Dublin Castle. Over the last 100 years the Olympia has been home to many of Ireland's famous playwrights, including Oscar Wilde.

What's a "Ri Ra"? We're glad you asked! It is "a place or state where exuberance and revelry prevail." I sit in the pub the better to watch the musicians inside. There are 10 of them, "having a session," as a member puts it. There are fiddles and pipes, a penny whistle and a couple of squeezeboxes. One man holds in his hands a drum called a bodhran, which he strikes with a stout wooden stick. Irish music is merry, although there is always the tug of the minor key.

The menu lists what I imagine is typical hearty Irish fare: fresh oysters, fish and chips, beef and Guinness stew, bangers and mash, mushy peas and shepherd's pie. There are also nods to today's eclectic tastes like fried calamari and blackened chicken linguini. My shepherd's pie sits before me, but not for long. Piping hot it is, full of carrots and mushy peas covered with a fancy doodle of mash. Grand.

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