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30 Restaurants in 30 Nights!
Tales from a Gastronomical Marathon
By Mimi Harrison

Night 19: Red Tomato Café
I'm pepped up by making peace with Cajun cooking and refreshed enough to start out the next evening with spirit. Even though I'm on my own again, and the clouds have returned, I'm glad to pull up to the parking valet outside Red Tomato. (Just where do all these cars get parked? It's like all those single socks in the laundry. They must exist, somewhere.) All this valet parking is really making me feel posh and spoiled. Obviously, I am really easy to please, a trait I get from my father who was just so happy with schmaltz smeared on rye bread. I do think though, were he still alive, things like valet parking (plus $4 coffees and wardrobe malfunctions) would kill him.

It's a darkening evening, and the inside of Red Tomato seems darker still. Light comes from the maw of the fired-up brick pizza oven, so that's about all we need. I'm perched at a teensy, tall airport-lounge table for two, but I still have Martha Gellhorn with me and she is excellent company everywhere.

My waiter breezes over, and I can immediately tell that he is one of those eager, cheerful sorts who, rather than offering unobtrusive, silent service, is going to be an Announcer: "Your menu, some water…" "a new napkin…" "your fork there," etc. But I really don't mind because he is a sweet young fellow, and — imagine — he's Irish!

Everyone in the house is loading carbs, so I decide it's time I had some Bethesda pizza. Although I do order some starters — a green salad with an extremely gum-puckering lemon vinaigrette and a pretty flatlined lentil and shrimp dish — the pizza is obviously the prima donna. Mine comes with generous, nicely grilled vegetables on top, even fresh tomatoes. The crust is deftly made, light but with a satisfying tooth to it, and just enough crunch. It's really delicious.

As I'm polishing off the last slice, my waiter friend appears again to announce the clearing of the plate. I ask him if he's Irish. "Irish? No!" "Oh, I thought I detected a slight lilt to your speech." "Oh, yeah, I try out different accents sometimes," he says. "I thought I sounded Spanish or Portuguese." He's from Bethesda.

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