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30 Restaurants in 30 Nights!
Tales from a Gastronomical Marathon
By Mimi Harrison

Night 9: Raku
I like to go out with a crowd on a weekend. I've got one tonight and when we get to Raku in Bethesda, it is jammed. It's a good thing I made a reservation. Le tout Bethesda is here tonight, or so it seems. It's a nice room, spacious but not cavernous, full but not squashed. It's also lively, a lot of full-tilt eating and talking is going on, but it's not unpleasant. I snap open my napkin, glad I am here.

The Asian outfittings are handsome, and the menu sounds fantastic. There is so much to choose from: sweet, savory, crunchy, raw, steamed, fried, the carb eater and the carbless can be happily satisfied. My little group negotiates: there are two hearty omnivores (Volker, the man in the group, and Guess Who), Dale, a South Beacher, and female Michael, who, as I have previously observed, might be happy with a saucer of poppy seeds.

The room is homogeneous, a large crowd of well-tended people passing plates and bending their mouths up to catch dripping chopsticked morsels. But wait. Among us all, I would say, several hundred souls, there is one remarkably shorter patron. He's got a silken slide of blond hair and rosy cheeks that must draw old ladies like groupies. He is accompanied by his senior familial associates and the chatter and smiles among the three of them are irresistible. I think I need his statement.

I introduce myself, explain what I'm doing and am invited to a seat. His name is Trevor and my honed maternal eye is correct: he is six. He has just eaten chicken and noodles, using a really neat little pair of learner chopsticks. They have a nifty little rubber thing that attaches the sticks and makes manipulating the food easy. A free dessert is placed in front of him, bread pudding with some whipped cream and strawberries. A finger goes into the cream, a cat's smile crosses his face. A free dessert? I thought I was the only person being comped this month!
"Oh, he's a regular," his mom explains.
"What's your favorite restaurant of all?" asks the roving reporter.
Not missing a beat, he answers "Café Deluxe."

Ah well.

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