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Night 17: Grapeseed
The thought of healthy, unblemished young people popping
Viagra for sexual energy depresses me, and I spend the
next day investigating the journalistic possibilities
of the subject. It is just another sign to me that our
culture is really spiraling down the drain.
Perhaps with that thought gnawing at the back of my
mind, I decide to head for Grapeseed, from what I hear,
a decidedly refined and civilized place.
It's one of those stagnant, unseasonably warm evenings,
when the air is like dog breath on your leg. Grapeseed
is crowded. Many people would be tempted to get the
air conditioner going for the first time all season,
stay home and eat a salad, but Grapeseed provides a
lure. It's not even cool in the restaurant, but no one
turns away at the door. Why?
This is a rather high-concept establishment that, as
its name implies, emphasizes the perfect wine with every
dish. In fact, the menu is full of arranged marriages,
and there are specific wine recommendations beside every
item on the menu. That is heaven for the wine lover
and makes things easy for the customer who is not savvy
(which includes me. I know food but am not much of a
wine drinker). It also upholsters the tab, if one is
not careful. To prevent sticker shock, the management
thoughtfully offers two serving sizes: a 2.5-ounce tasting,
and a full 5-ounce glass.
Jeff Heineman is the owner and chef, and his knowledge
and love of wine are equal to his culinary gifts. After
studying at Bethesda's L'Academie de Cuisine, he went
to France, where he apprenticed to a chef in Burgundy
in exchange for room and board. He really paid attention.
From my grilled lobster with bacon, white beans and
lemon through to my perfect, almost military cylinder
of chocolate mousse pie, there was not one false note.
Heineman's menu changes daily, no small challenge for
any chef, especially one who plays matchmaker. That
takes clarity of mind and a deftness that eludes many
in his field. Plus, he does his work in an open kitchen,
and pulls it all off with complete aplomb. Back to restaurant list
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