April 19, 2014

Oct 15, 201312:19 PMTable Talk

First Taste: Bethesda’s House of Milae

Oct 15, 2013 - 12:19 PM
First Taste: Bethesda’s House of Milae

Seafood pancake, sauce and kimchi

Before the Kang family opened House of Milae, their new Korean restaurant on St. Elmo Avenue, Thomas Kang said they were aiming for a simple, reasonably-priced eatery with home-style food. His wife, known as “M&M,” is the chef.

After having lunch there last week, I’d say they met their goal.

The food is not an exemplary example of Korean cuisine, but it’s comforting fare—what you’d expect if you went to the Kang’s house for a weekday dinner. Or, as my friend said, House of Milae is a good place to go when you want a meal in a bowl—particularly last week during all that wretched rain.

First, however, we tried the seafood buchimgae (Korean-style pancake), which came on a plate (of course). Unlike the somewhat fluffier versions I’ve tried, this one was on the rubbery side, and the seafood was sparse.

The kimchi with cabbage and slivered fish cake was rather bland; another kimchi side dish, made with cabbage and pickled radish, had a lot more pep.

BibimbapBibimbap—the rice, vegetable, beef and fried egg dish that is sometimes served in a hot stone bowl was served here in a smooth white one; it was a pleasant mélange definitely enhanced with the accompanying chili pepper sauce. And the japchae, sweet potato noodles stir-fried with meat and seasoned vegetables, was soothing and homey.

4932 St. Elmo Ave. Bethesda

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About This Blog

Welcome to Table Talk, the blog version of the column in Bethesda Magazine. Be one of the first to find out about new restaurants and food shops, and join in the lively discussion about first bites, snipes and recommendations.

Before becoming Food Editor of Bethesda Magazine, Carole Sugarman was an award-winning food reporter for The Washington Post for 20 years. She has also written for national food magazines and a food policy newsletter, as well as judged cookbook and cooking contests. She lives in Chevy Chase where she eats PB&J for lunch when she’s not working.

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