April 19, 2014

May 16, 201312:30 PMTable Talk

First Taste: 8407 Kitchen Bar’s new chef

May 16, 2013 - 12:30 PM
First Taste: 8407 Kitchen Bar’s new chef

Seared scallops at 8407 Kitchen Bar

It’s been almost five months since Ed Witt replaced Pedro Matamoros as executive chef at 8407 Kitchen Bar, and after having dinner there on Tuesday night (in the aftermath of the Silver Spring Metro fire), I can’t say the food was electrifying.

Some of it was good, like the smoked deviled eggs appetizer, sitting atop a lovely green pea puree, and pastry chef Rita Garruba’s desserts—such as the bittersweet chocolate torte—are still top notch.

But the two entrees I tried lacked polish. The seared scallops with curry, cauliflower, pickled carrots, golden raisins and pistachio brittle suffered from ingredient overload, and the components didn’t all mesh. And the “crispy” confit duck leg was on the flabby side, with dull beans and potatoes as accompaniments.

Our waiter, a chatty guy who had seen the Metro fire unfold from the second floor dining room, advised against the pasta with veal ragu when we asked about it, saying it didn’t compare to former chef Matamoros’ signature lamb Bolognese, a comparable dish.

Some of the more recent reviews on Yelp seem to concur that the place has had its hits and misses. Still, I’m hopeful that as time goes on, the hits will prevail. 

8407 Ramsey Ave., Silver Spring, 301-587-8407, www.8407kb.com

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About This Blog

Welcome to Table Talk, the blog version of the column in Bethesda Magazine. Be one of the first to find out about new restaurants and food shops, and join in the lively discussion about first bites, snipes and recommendations.

Before becoming Food Editor of Bethesda Magazine, Carole Sugarman was an award-winning food reporter for The Washington Post for 20 years. She has also written for national food magazines and a food policy newsletter, as well as judged cookbook and cooking contests. She lives in Chevy Chase where she eats PB&J for lunch when she’s not working.

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